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Monthly Archives: April 2016

Space Hulk Diorama (5) – Tutorial: Painting Tyranid Eggs

STP ‘Pruno’

It’s taken a while to finish this section, due to it needing a bit of trial and error; but I thought it might be helpful to go through painting gunge-laden alien eggs. I wanted to make it look as if genestealers had made a nest out of flesh -as a nod to the Alien films.

Firstly, undercoat the eggs and the surrounding nebulae – you don’t have to use grey, I just find it to be an easy colour to begin with:

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These are the colours I used to paint the flesh part:

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Basecoat – cadian fleshtone:

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Wash – a mix of black + smoke brown + cadmium red + Liche purple (ratio 1:1:1:1):

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Drybrush – mix of cadian fleshtone + rotting flesh (ratio 2:1):

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Drybrush – mix of cadian fleshtone + rotting flesh (ratio 1:2):

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Drybrush – pure rotting flesh. I then painted a glaze of liche purple over the whole fleshy area to smooth it out:

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Basecoat the eggs with GW Rakarth flesh; then wash them with smoke brown:

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Stipple the eggs with a mix of Rakarth flesh + white (ratio 1:1); then stipple the top part with pure white:

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I made the slime effect using Tamiya clear acrylics:

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Along with Uhu stretchy glue, and epoxy glue:

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And vallejo still water effect: which I forgot to photograph.

There was a bit of experimentation involved here, so it’s not quite a linear progress.

First, mix the Tamiya Green + yellow, with a small amount of the Tamiya smoke; then add the still water effect. The ratio here is a case of trial and error – but mix the paint first, then thin it by adding increasing amounts of water effect until you’re happy with it. If you use a wet palette, the mixture will be usable for at least a couple of days (for better and for worse, I have to say):

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I used the Uhu stretchy glue to make slime entrails – stretching them from point to point using a cocktail stick:

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When this has dried, use another cocktail stick to coat the stretchy glue with several layers of epoxy glue; which both strengthens the entrails, and adds texture:

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I then brushed over the whole of this with another layer of the Tamiya paint/still water effect mixture:

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I decided to add more slime entrails; but also sprinkled some microbeads over the fleshy area, while the Tamiya paint/water effect mix was still wet. This can be a bit fiddly:

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Once all of this had cured, I added successive layers of the Tamiya paint/water effect mix – wait for one layer to dry fully before adding another:

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I possibly added too many layers – I think I went a bit over the top with the green slime; but nevermind:

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Finish by coating the whole thing with a layer of pure water effect:

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Sufficiently stomach-turning.

 

 

I haven’t had much free-time to check out other painters’ works lately due to illness, but worth a look:

How to paint old-school Goblin skin (RealmOfChaos)

Warhammer monsters (TaleOfPainters)

Work-In-Progress Tzeentch chaos warband (Technasma)

Grom the Paunch conversion (Fantasy Games)

Harlequin Army (Hope River)

Space Hulk Diorama (4)

Bona Dish ‘Susan Says’

 

The construction work on the base is finished – it needs a bit of gap-filling; but it’s essentially done:

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I decided to model genestealer eggs underneath the flooring.

First, make small balls of varying sizes out of greenstuff, or any similar putty. When they’ve cured, cut them in half, or remove the lower third. These will form the eggs.

I attached these to the base using still water effect:

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Once this has dried, place PVA glue around the eggs, using a cocktail stick:

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While the PVA is still wet, use another cocktail stick to place droplets of superglue on the PVA – and then create texture by stippling the mixture:

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Once it’s dried it will be transparent:


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I will make a tutorial on how to paint these, and make them look suitably gruesome, in the near future.

 

Worth a look

An Inquisitor road crew (Eternal Hunt)

A clerically-themed Inquisitor and retinue (Ironsleet)

Step-by-step guide to making a ruinous base (Blog De Morglum)

The first of three articles on achieving effective composition with bases (Saruxaxa’s miniworlds)

Suitably-themed visit to the Gosport Submarine museum (Big Lee’s Miniature Adventures)

 

Space Hulk Diorama (3)

My Bloody Valentine ‘Honey Power’ 

 

I’ve finished one of the space hulk panels, and thought it might be helpful to make a tutorial.

I’m not particularly good at straight-edge modelling, and this was an exercise in trial and error – but if you want to make something similar, here’s how to do it. I would recommend making a practice-run before starting the finished piece.

Materials: foamcard, plasticard, plastic-rod, plastic-tubing. It isn’t really necessary to use the same materials that I have here, as they can be quite pricey – card and plastic straws would work just as well. It’s worth investing in a straight-edge tool and a sharp craft-knife though.

The panel on the left is what I was modelling here:

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Firstly, cut a piece of foamcard to size – and draw the outlines of the door-hatch:

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Remove the two panels like so, with a craft knife – the sharper the blade, the cleaner its cut will be (this was my preparatory version, using a blade which was a bit blunt; so it frayed the edges slightly) :

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Make the pistons – cutting plastic-rod to size, before gluing them into plastic tubing:

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These are placed in the panels. The door itself was made from plastic-card:

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It looked a bit flimsy at this point, so I made some more pistons from smaller plastic-rod/tubing, which bulked it out a bit. The octagonal frame of the door here is the card from the mock-up version I’d made:

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I made a copy using plasticard – this was quite painstaking, so be prepared to undertake several efforts before getting it right (I can never manage to cut it with perfect precision):

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I then made lining for the door itself out of plasticard:

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Unfortunately, this is where an error crept it – as the lines aren’t a uniform width, due to a minor planning mistake. I hadn’t noticed this until I’d finished, either. This isn’t a big deal – but something to watch out for. They were glued on:

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I added strips cut from plasticard to the door:

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I used texture plasticard to make a panel above and beneath the door:

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Finally, I added detail -using rhinestones to make the rivets; and various bits and pieces to make it look mechanised:

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Done.

 

Nurgle Plague Cow

While I’m waiting for the plasticard I’ve ordered to arrive, I thought I would make a head-start on the next project I’m going to work on – a Nurgle Plague Cow:

 

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I intend to make it versatile. You can swap the head, so that it becomes a chaos sorcerer:

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It could even be turned into a Chaos Space Marine Lord:

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I’m not sure whether to keep it as a stand-alone model, or to make it the mount for a character. It needs a bit more work, but I’m happy with the progress so far.