The Typhus model is very elaborate, so it’s best to start by reading through the assembly instructions before removing any pieces from their sprues. Kits like this are easily botched, otherwise.
Once parts have been snipped off, they invariably have mould-lines and unwanted bits of plastic sprue still attached to them. These need scraping away with a craft knife, and filing down carefully with a needle file:
It’s virtually impossible to get rid of these entirely – it shouldn’t matter too much, though; as any which really can’t be removed can be painted up as battle-damage.
Typhus is also a fiddly model to construct – if its glued together at this stage, some details would be unreachable with a paintbrush. Which is why it is helpful to test-fit the pieces, using blu-tack:
As you can see, the swarm of flies obscures most of the model’s back:
I left the flies off, for the time-being. Paint makes plastic glue ineffective; so I placed blu-tack over the parts which will need gluing, and had to remain free from the spray paint, when undercoating the miniature:
Once you’ve found the areas which are likely to be obscured, you can glue the rest together; and leave it to cure. With plastic glue, it’s best to leave it overnight.
I also drilled a hole in the foot, so that a piece of wire can be inserted later – meaning the model can be held easily while being painted:
You can buy fancy painting handles, but it’s easy enough to make your own by super-gluing corks to old plastic bases:
This is the patented Hull Warhammer & Stuff deluxe version – featuring a natural texture, for an enjoyable finger-hold experience. It can be placed upright or horizontal, for ease of storage:
Anyway, before undercoating the model, wash it in warm water with a small amount of shampoo added; and leave the pieces to dry on a piece of kitchen towel:
It can then be undercoated:
And attached to the cork:
Ready to paint.