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Monthly Archives: October 2018

Typhus (5) – work in progress

Eve’s Plum ‘once twice’

 

Just a brief work in progress post, really:

 

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Typhus (4) – painting death guard armour

Green colours tend to be either warm (highlighted by adding yellow) or cold (add white).

I used a cold shade on Typhus – partly so it would remain consistent with the other death guard army models; but also because it would act as a contrast for weathering.

 

Paints used:

 

Basecoat – Loren Forest:

 

Shade – wash with black + smoke:

 

Layer – Loren Forest + a small amount of the black /smoke mix:

Adding black/smoke doesn’t make a huge difference – but it creates a smoother transition between layers.

 

Layer – Loren Forest + Death Guard Green:

 

Layer – pure Death Guard Green:

 

Wash – I used a thin layer of smoke to redefine the armour here. It’s not strictly necessary, but I find it helpful:

 

Layer: Death Guard Green + Nurgling Green:

 

Because Nurgling Green contains a fair amount of white, it leads to a slightly chalky effect – as can be seen on the underside of the arm:

But this is helpful – as the splotches and marks will serve as a guide for painting damage.

 

Paint scratches/chips with black+ smoke:

 

Highlight the edges of the armour and the damage with Nurgling Green. On the largest chips, use Nurgling Green + White:

 

Glaze over all the armour with Olive Green:

 

Glaze around the recesses with a dark purple (black + burnt cadmium red + xereus purple + smoke), and inside the recesses with a lighter version of the mix (i.e. omit black):

I thought this added a bruising effect.

 

Apply a final glaze over all of the armour with a yellow-ochre colour – I used leather brown, as I didn’t want the armour to look too warm:

If you find that glazing results in unwanted patches, stipple over these gently with Death Guard Green – which will blend them into the surrounding area.

If the edges lose their definition, re-highlight with Nurgling Green.

 

When glazing, I used a gel medium:

This is not vital, but it does make the paint easier to control on a model which is as curved and heavily recessed as Typhus. 

Typhus (3) – basecoating!

New Order – Procession 

 

Basecoating is not the most enjoyable stage of painting; but it’s the foundation of the finished miniature. So it’s worth being thorough.

Rather than use this post to go through paint recipes, I thought it would be more helpful to discuss some general guidelines for painting complex miniatures.

Before you begin, I would recommend investing in a notebook, to keep a record of any paints used – because it’s easy to forget. You can also use the pad to sketch out freehand designs; or jot down ideas for bases.

It’s also worth using different kinds of brushes, for various painting tasks:

From top to bottom:

  • Old brushes, with splayed bristles – used for stippling or drybrushing.
  • New Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes, which are used for fine detail.
  • Cheap brushes, which are used for painting larger areas; or applying washes and glazes.
  • Another cheap brush, with flat bristles – which is used to paint large, flat areas/ drybrushing. I mainly use this for painting textured areas on bases.

 

And as a final preparatory stage…planning your colour scheme. This is not vital – because if something ends up looking wrong, you can always paint over it. But it is worthwhile giving some thought to it, before you begin painting.

A bit of research – or even the colour schemes suggested by Games Workshop – are good places to start, if you’re stuck for inspiration.

These were the colours I used, but I will go through them in more detail at a later date:

 

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As always, the golden rule is to thin your paints: several diluted layers of paint are usually better than one heavy application.

But how thin? There isn’t really a definitive answer. Paints themselves vary in density – and sometimes don’t need to be thinned down: for example, when drybrushing.

As a rough guide though, I recommend a paint-to-water ratio of at least 2 parts paint to 1 part water. I mainly use paint of that thickness when applying the first layer – but then thin it slightly for successive layers; so it has a ratio of 2:2.

It needs to be watered-down further for washes (c. 1 part paint to 4 parts water), and at its thinnest for glazes (c. 1:8).

I can’t make diagrams, but I’ve demonstrated this below:

From left to bottom-right (ignore the top-right splotch of paint):

  • Undiluted paint
  • Paint thinned with water (2:1)
  • Paint thinned with water (2:2)
  • Wash (1: 4)
  • Glaze (1: 8)

Ultimately, it requires trial and error: if paint is too thick, it obscures details, and looks rough. If it’s too thin, it runs uncontrollably – and will require inordinate layers, if you want to create a solid coat.

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When applying basecoats, I start with the largest area; which was the armour here:

It usually takes 3-4 thin layers of paint, before it looks opaque.

I find it best to complete sections one at a time (e.g. an arm) rather than trying to finish the whole of the armour at once – otherwise it feels like you’re getting nowhere.

I would also recommend viewing the model from multiple angles, to make sure you haven’t missed any parts:

As you can see, the underside of the model’s right arm looks a bit patchy, and required more layers of paint.

When the bascoat colours are done, you can get a clear picture of what the finished model will be like (I know it looks as if Typhus is wearing brown shoes here – bear with me):

As before, really, it’s best to double-check/tidy-up the model at this stage.

Once you’re happy with it, apply an all-over wash of black+brown, in several thin layers:

This adds shading – but for present purposes, it brings out details; which makes it much easier to paint them later.

Before:

After:

Ensure each wash has dried before adding another layer, though – otherwise it will remove any paint which is still wet. Extra attention is sometimes required for deeper recesses (like underneath the shoulder plates).

You may get a pooling effect in places – if so, just leave these to dry; as they can be painted over during subsequent stages.

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Once all of this is complete, you can focus on the individual aspects of a model – I will go through these in the upcoming posts.