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Category Archives: Chaos Space Marines

Chaos Space Marine Army

Groop Dogdrill ‘Jackie O’

I have mixed feelings about this, as a project, really. I started painting the models almost exactly a year ago – and it started out enjoyable, became work, and ultimately a hard slog towards the end. I was expecting to be left with something which I was proud of – but once the figures were altogether, it looked a bit paltry; and I felt a bit burned-out, the same way I did when I finished my degree (long time ago, now).

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A few snapshots: 013

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I’m going to take a short break and recharge, before starting out on something new. I won’t say what, but if you want a cryptic clue – I often sketch out ideas in a notebook, as a kind of memory aid (I can’t always read my own writing, admittedly. The theme will be ‘Hunter & Hunted’; not ‘Hamster & Hampstead’):

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Chaos Tank Revisited

The dbs ‘black and white’

I wasn’t entirely happy with the tank that I painted last year; so decided to repaint some of it – mainly just toning-down the brighter areas, improving the contrast via spot-colours, and replacing the freehand designs with some which were a bit more fitting:

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This was the final model of the Chaos Space Marine army, which I began a year ago. I will hopefully upload some photos of this soon.

 

 

A Step-By-Step Guide To Painting Basic Freehand Designs On Banners

 American Music Club ‘Western Sky’

Freehand designs can be a bit daunting, especially on banners. Not everybody has an artistic talent – God knows I don’t – but they become easier, and more straightforward, when you plan them out beforehand, and break them down into small steps.The key is to keep refining and sharpening-up the lines until you are happy with the effect.

First, because this was going to be a Black Legion standard-bearer, I made some sketches of basic designs from GW artwork:

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To begin painting, plot the outline with dots:

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Then connect the dots:

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Thicken the lines:

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Again, plot the next stage with dots (you may notice how the mistakes were painted over during this stage):

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Connect the dots:

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Use the same technique to create the arrows:

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It can be difficult to paint symmetrical angles; so, because I wanted to make a pointed effect, I painted a line down the centre of each arrow:

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Then created the tips:

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Before painting over the superfluous part to create the sharp angles:

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Again, thicken the lines:

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At this point the design looked a bit top-heavy; so, to balance it out, I painted a ribbon underneath the icon – again, plot this out first:

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Then fill this in:

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Add colour by glazing the design with thin layers (in this case Vallejo Smoke); while adding texture via painting on cracks and chips. I also painted thin layers of dark red (GW Rhinox Hide) around the design to give it a bit of depth:

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Finish by painting in the eye, and adding roman numerals. I also painted on some tears in the space between the icon and the ribbon:

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So, it’s not too difficult to paint effective freehand designs, as long as you approach them step-by-step.

Quick Method For Painting Dark Red

Grenadine ‘Steely Daniel’

Red is sometimes tricky to shade and highlight effectively – there are lots of different methods available, but for a straightforward red colour-scheme I use the following colours:

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Step by step 

1. Basecoat: Rhinox Hide (GW)

2. Layer: Burnt Cadmium Red (VMC)

3. Edge Highlight: i) Red (VMC) ii) Red + Goldbrown (VMC)

4. Glaze: Baal Red (GW) 002

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Some Old Models, Re-Painted

Wool ‘Little Darlin’

First and second-generation Khorne Berzerkers – from the late eighties and mid-nineties respectively:

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Between the two, the older model was much more enjoyable to paint.

I also made a slight change to the Plague Marine that I painted a few days after Christmas:

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Interesting Odds & Ends:

The Blanchitsu-themed invitational at IronSleet is showcasing some very imaginative re-interpretations of models.

WarhammerTV has a good video tutorial on painting an Adeptus Mechanicus colour scheme.

The DieVincis have a review of a painting workshop with Mr Giraldez – which has some helpful pointers on colour theory.

A Quick Method For Painting Black

Pylon ‘Look Alive’  

Black can be a difficult colour to paint. There is a scientific explanation for this – namely that God decided it shouldn’t be an easy colour to paint. He tossed a coin.

There are some good guides to overcoming this, such as MassiveVoodoo‘s, or FlameOn‘s – but for a more straightforward rank & file approach, I use these colours:

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Step-by-step

1) Basecoat – black:

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2) Wash with Smoke:

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3) I don’t layer highlights on when painting black this way, because it turns the colour grey. Instead, keep the colour-transition minimal, by edge-highlighting in two stages:

i) First edge-highlight – mix a small amount of Khaki with black (dark grey).

ii) Second edge-highlight – add more khaki, to the above mix (light grey)

Unfortunately, my camera doesn’t photograph black very well, but you can see the edge-highlighting on the right elbow pad and Glove:

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4) Glaze – black:

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It’s not an artistic method; but it makes for an easy way to paint an effective black colour-scheme.

Painting Plague Marines (Rank & File)

Moonshake ‘Gravity’ 

It proved a bit gruelling, for some reason, painting these:

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However, the paint scheme itself is pretty straightforward. The specific paints/colours I’ve used are not all-important – they were intended to tie-in with a larger force; mainly composed of Khorne/Black Legion Chaos Space Marines. They were also meant to be quick to paint.

These are the basic colours used:

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The models were bought second-hand, a few years ago now; and I modified them slightly, as you can see from the green parts:

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Painting the armour

1) Rhinox Hide (GW):

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2) Bronze Green (VMC):

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3) Wash: i. Olive Green (VMA) + Smoke (VMC). ii. Wash with Smoke on its own (VMC):

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4) Edge Highlight: i. Bronze Green (VMC) + Rotting Flesh (GW). ii. Rotting Flesh on its own:

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5) Glaze: i. Thraka Green (GW). ii. Smoke (VMC):

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It isn’t strictly vital to use this final glaze of Smoke; but while Thraka Green smoothes out the previous layers, the Smoke colour adds a bit of warmth, and also makes the overall appearance look a bit murkier and less clean than, say, Dark Angels’ power armour tends to.

Painting the Buboes

These were the colours used – most of them, at least; I forgot to include the brighter red colour:

 

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To paint the buboes:

  1. Basecoat: Rhinox Hide.
  2. Burnt Cadmium Red (VMC)
  3. Burnt Cadmium Red + Red (VMC)
  4. Red + Trollslayer Orange (GW)
  5. Trollslayer Orange + Plague Brown (VGC)
  6. Plague Brown
  7. Plague Brown + Rotting Flesh (GW)
  8. Glaze: Baal Red (GW).

You can see how the colours were applied:

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And then how the glaze ties these all together:

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I also give them a final glaze with a thinned-down layer of water effect.

Creating the blood-effect

The materials used for this are, firstly, a piece of nylon thread – you can buy proper modelling versions of this, or use fishing line; but I just use the kind which attach labels to clothes:

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Also: PVA glue, epoxy glue, and superglue; along with Tamiya clear red paint and black artist’s ink:

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First, fix the nylon thread into place using dots of PVA. This won’t prove hardy, but it means you can manoeuvre the thread carefully into place. Once this has dried, reinforce the bond with small dots of superglue (using a cocktail stick, or something similar):

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Create the texture using epoxy glue – dot some on top of the thread, and some underneath it:

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You can use water effects, which is easier to apply, and less toxic than epoxy; but it is less able to withstand handling. I usually use a cocktail stick to stipple the glue, just before it has fully cured, in order to make it less smooth, and look more naturalistic.

Once the epoxy has dried, mix the Tamiya clear red paint with a small amount of black ink, to create the bloody-colour:

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Stipple this on using and old brush:
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And with that, ’tis done:

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