RSS Feed

Category Archives: Night Goblin Shaman

Night Goblin Shaman revisited

Hang Ups ‘Jump Start’ 

I’ve finished rejigging the Night Goblin, originally done in February 2017:

Nothing too drastic – just making the base look a bit more imposing:

And I’ve changed the clothing – from a slightly over-bright hood:

To a racy, off the shoulders number (so to speak):

I also re-painted the metal areas with metallic paints:

Happier with this now than before:

This was the last of the models which needed re-tweaking; so I’m going to start painting the Inquisitor models this week – beginning with the Cherubim.


Night Goblin Shaman (4) – Finished

Smashing Pumpkins ‘Jellybelly’


Painted in warmer colours than Night Goblins tend to be; and with non-metallic metals:








I haven’t mastered non-metallics yet; but it’s something I intend to focus on this year. In the past, when I’ve not been happy with the finished effect, I tended to re-paint them with regular metals. But although they’re not rendered flawlessly here, I think it’s better to live with the imperfections – and to keep working at improving the technique.


Worth a look

Genestealer warband (Leskouzes)

Tutorial on painting non-metallic swords (thefantasyhammer)

Tutorial on painting freehand designs (figurementors)

Crazy Ivan (forgemechanicus)

Kharn work in progress photos (flameon)


Night Goblin Shaman (3) – work in progress

PJ Harvey ‘Cat on the wall’

Just a work in progress, post. I’ve finished the base, barring the possible need to tweak it once the goblin is finished:




The spiders were painted using the same basic colours as the Necromunda plague zombies from last year. I may adjust the largest green orbs slightly, as they’re not quite looking right; but we’ll see.



Night Goblin shaman (2) – painting magic effects

Dead Can Dance ‘American Dreaming’

It took a while to devise a colour-scheme for the base that I was happy with. I had thought about making the object source lighting effect the main feature; but this would have dominated the whole scene – as you can see from the preparatory experiment:


It would have meant having to paint the goblin shaman in exactly the same colour, probably in its entirety; which wasn’t really what I had in mind. So, I decided to keep the light effect a bit more subtle.

The base was painted as fairly standard mossy grey stone:


These were the colours used to paint the glow effect:


Object source lighting is, to all intents and purposes, extreme highlighting; designed to create an optical illusion. There are numerous methods for achieving this effect – in this case, simply blending up from dark to light; then smoothing the effect out through a glaze.

Basecoat – olive green:


Layer – olive green + snot green:


Layer – snot green:


At this point, I applied a thin wash of olive green over the snot green areas, to give them a bit of definition.

Layer – snot green + scorpion green:


Layer – scorpion green:


For the final highlight, mix scorpion green + yriel yellow + white; dot this on the tips of each ball:


Finally, apply several thin glazes of thraka green:


Glazing will darken the overall effect slightly – if you want to make the finished effect brighter, you can reapply the final green highlight; but I wanted the green areas on the base to be slightly darker than the OSL effect I’m going to paint on the goblin, so that the goblin stands out from the base.

The colours haven’t come out so well, unfortunately, as my camera isn’t great at photographing anything dark – but on a more positive note, I decided that I will add a pair of spiders to the base: they have the right combination of creepiness and coolness.

Night Goblin Shaman (1) – making a magic base

My Vitriol ‘Safety Zones & Crumple Zones’ 

I want to make this a kind of flip-side to the mountaineer piece – which was intended to have a cold atmosphere, with muted colours. I like the magic bases that MassiveVoodoo and Sproket’sSmallWorld (amongst others) have created in the past – so thought I would try something similar.



Materials used



I made flagstones by using a modelling knife to cut up a small sheet of super-sculpey. If you haven’t used this before, it’s a type of clay which needs to be baked; rather than air-dried. These were made a long time ago, so were already to hand; but you could use Milliput, or any similar material – including plasticard – instead:


To make the magic effects – I kind of experimented a bit here, using a broken plastic flying stand, heated over a tealight candle and stretched out, to make some larger stalagmites (best to ensure health and safety with this stage, as melting plastic has some obvious risks):


Then cut into shape:


These can be very brittle, however; and it’s difficult to trim them into small pieces without breaking them. So, to make smaller stalagmites, I used the same method as for making icicles.

Attach small shards of transparent plastic to a spare piece of sprue, using water effect:


Coat with several layers of water effect:


Once dry, cut from the sprue:


I also used various balls of different sizes – ones made from greenstuff, the others were microbeads:


Wood-putty, PVA glue, water effect:


Wood-putty isn’t strictly necessary, as you can used textured paint instead – or even PVA and sand to texture the rocks; I just like buggering about, really.

I made a mock-up of the base, but it didn’t really look right – even for a miniature, the goblin is a small model, and was easily overshadowed by the base:


So it was adjusted slightly – I used a coping saw to remove the corners, and created a sort of dais for the goblin:


Coat the cork with wood-putty, using an old paintbrush:


Begin to attach the flag-stones, and the stalagmites – use PVA glue for the flagstones. You can use PVA to attach beads/balls, as well; but I find water effect is easier. If you use the white kind, it’s easy to see where you’ve placed it, and you will know when it has dried.

It’s best to glue the stalagmites into place first, then assemble the flagstones around them, rather than vice versa; because that way you can raise the tips of the stones, to make them look like they’ve been pushed up by the stalagmites. It doesn’t matter too much, though:


This stage finished:


Now the tricky part.

I drilled small holes into the greenstuff balls, as they are a bit heavier than microbeads – they were then slotted onto the tips of the stalagmites. The microbeads were simply attached by dotting water effect on the tip of each stalagmite, and then placing the beads on top:


To be honest, this stage is very fiddly – there’s probably a much easier way of attaching the beads than using a pair of tweezers to put them in place, one at a time; but that was what I did here, at least:


You can see how the different types of ball create different effects:


Ready to paint:


Well, just about. I haven’t quite figured out a colour scheme yet. I might also add some spiders to this – but we’ll have to see.