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Category Archives: Nurgle

Typhus (10) – making a detailed gaming base

9bach – llyn du


This isn’t intended to be a display-base, as such – because it needs to compliment the bases on the other Death Guard models, painted last year.

With Typhus being a centerpiece model, though, it will benefit from being a bit more detailed.

So a step-by-step guide.

Cork tile, arranged in the vague shape of a Nurgle symbol – attached with PVA glue:


Cover the cork with wood putty, and the rest of the base with sand:


Add some gravel:


Scatter sand lightly over this, to blend it with the rest of the base:


Seal the base with a wash of PVA (5 parts water to 1 part glue):


Add details – I find it helpful to dot superglue on, then add PVA before attaching plastic bits:


I added more maggots – using pieces of old plastic skaven tails:


Create viscera, by placing PVA in places:


Use a cocktail stick, and dab it in superglue – then drag the PVA around to make trails of gunk:


I think I went a bit over the top here, but nevermind:


Use greenstuff to create any additional details – in this case, intestines:


I then used UHU stretchy glue/epoxy glue to make finer pieces of slime (see a previous post for more on this method):


I’m going to put a nurgling on the base, but haven’t attached it yet:


I will go through painting this base in the next post.


Typhus (6) – painting white + using spot colours

Deus – Via


White can be an awkward colour to paint. So a step by step guide – plus, a bit about spot colours.

Colours needed:


Base – Earth + Fenrisian Grey (1:1):


Wash all over with USA Olive Brown:


Wash the recesses with Smoke:


Layer – Earth + Fenrisian Grey (1:1):

Add white to the above mix:

Add more white to the mix:

I avoided taking this up to pure white, as the helmet should be the focal point of the model – and so needs to be slightly lighter in colour than any other white areas.

It also looked a bit clean for an ancient set of bandages – so I shaded them down, with washes of brown/ochre:


I thought painting it up as a regular scythe looked slightly bland – so I turned it into a deamonic weapon. Painting the wooden area up as flesh; with eyes on one side of the handle:

And an unhealthy green glow on the reverse:


White was the spot colour on this model. But it kind of involved breaking the rules, really.

A spot colour is intended to make the model look more distinct, by contrasting with the main colours of a paint scheme – which usually compliment each other.

However, in this case, that was the green armour and the fleshy pink – which are polar opposites. So white was a neutral shade, falling between the two.

It’s usually best to imagine a triangle shape before placing the spot colour – such as the head, and the two hands. In this case, it was the helmet, the skull, and the bandages on the scythe.

It’s not life-changing information – but it may prove helpful, when planning-out painting in the future.

Typhus (5) – work in progress

Eve’s Plum ‘once twice’


Just a brief work in progress post, really:


Typhus (4) – painting death guard armour

Green colours tend to be either warm (highlighted by adding yellow) or cold (add white).

I used a cold shade on Typhus – partly so it would remain consistent with the other death guard army models; but also because it would act as a contrast for weathering.


Paints used:


Basecoat – Loren Forest:


Shade – wash with black + smoke:


Layer – Loren Forest + a small amount of the black /smoke mix:

Adding black/smoke doesn’t make a huge difference – but it creates a smoother transition between layers.


Layer – Loren Forest + Death Guard Green:


Layer – pure Death Guard Green:


Wash – I used a thin layer of smoke to redefine the armour here. It’s not strictly necessary, but I find it helpful:


Layer: Death Guard Green + Nurgling Green:


Because Nurgling Green contains a fair amount of white, it leads to a slightly chalky effect – as can be seen on the underside of the arm:

But this is helpful – as the splotches and marks will serve as a guide for painting damage.


Paint scratches/chips with black+ smoke:


Highlight the edges of the armour and the damage with Nurgling Green. On the largest chips, use Nurgling Green + White:


Glaze over all the armour with Olive Green:


Glaze around the recesses with a dark purple (black + burnt cadmium red + xereus purple + smoke), and inside the recesses with a lighter version of the mix (i.e. omit black):

I thought this added a bruising effect.


Apply a final glaze over all of the armour with a yellow-ochre colour – I used leather brown, as I didn’t want the armour to look too warm:

If you find that glazing results in unwanted patches, stipple over these gently with Death Guard Green – which will blend them into the surrounding area.

If the edges lose their definition, re-highlight with Nurgling Green.


When glazing, I used a gel medium:

This is not vital, but it does make the paint easier to control on a model which is as curved and heavily recessed as Typhus. 

Typhus (3) – basecoating!

New Order – Procession 


Basecoating is not the most enjoyable stage of painting; but it’s the foundation of the finished miniature. So it’s worth being thorough.

Rather than use this post to go through paint recipes, I thought it would be more helpful to discuss some general guidelines for painting complex miniatures.

Before you begin, I would recommend investing in a notebook, to keep a record of any paints used – because it’s easy to forget. You can also use the pad to sketch out freehand designs; or jot down ideas for bases.

It’s also worth using different kinds of brushes, for various painting tasks:

From top to bottom:

  • Old brushes, with splayed bristles – used for stippling or drybrushing.
  • New Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes, which are used for fine detail.
  • Cheap brushes, which are used for painting larger areas; or applying washes and glazes.
  • Another cheap brush, with flat bristles – which is used to paint large, flat areas/ drybrushing. I mainly use this for painting textured areas on bases.


And as a final preparatory stage…planning your colour scheme. This is not vital – because if something ends up looking wrong, you can always paint over it. But it is worthwhile giving some thought to it, before you begin painting.

A bit of research – or even the colour schemes suggested by Games Workshop – are good places to start, if you’re stuck for inspiration.

These were the colours I used, but I will go through them in more detail at a later date:



As always, the golden rule is to thin your paints: several diluted layers of paint are usually better than one heavy application.

But how thin? There isn’t really a definitive answer. Paints themselves vary in density – and sometimes don’t need to be thinned down: for example, when drybrushing.

As a rough guide though, I recommend a paint-to-water ratio of at least 2 parts paint to 1 part water. I mainly use paint of that thickness when applying the first layer – but then thin it slightly for successive layers; so it has a ratio of 2:2.

It needs to be watered-down further for washes (c. 1 part paint to 4 parts water), and at its thinnest for glazes (c. 1:8).

I can’t make diagrams, but I’ve demonstrated this below:

From left to bottom-right (ignore the top-right splotch of paint):

  • Undiluted paint
  • Paint thinned with water (2:1)
  • Paint thinned with water (2:2)
  • Wash (1: 4)
  • Glaze (1: 8)

Ultimately, it requires trial and error: if paint is too thick, it obscures details, and looks rough. If it’s too thin, it runs uncontrollably – and will require inordinate layers, if you want to create a solid coat.


When applying basecoats, I start with the largest area; which was the armour here:

It usually takes 3-4 thin layers of paint, before it looks opaque.

I find it best to complete sections one at a time (e.g. an arm) rather than trying to finish the whole of the armour at once – otherwise it feels like you’re getting nowhere.

I would also recommend viewing the model from multiple angles, to make sure you haven’t missed any parts:

As you can see, the underside of the model’s right arm looks a bit patchy, and required more layers of paint.

When the bascoat colours are done, you can get a clear picture of what the finished model will be like (I know it looks as if Typhus is wearing brown shoes here – bear with me):

As before, really, it’s best to double-check/tidy-up the model at this stage.

Once you’re happy with it, apply an all-over wash of black+brown, in several thin layers:

This adds shading – but for present purposes, it brings out details; which makes it much easier to paint them later.



Ensure each wash has dried before adding another layer, though – otherwise it will remove any paint which is still wet. Extra attention is sometimes required for deeper recesses (like underneath the shoulder plates).

You may get a pooling effect in places – if so, just leave these to dry; as they can be painted over during subsequent stages.


Once all of this is complete, you can focus on the individual aspects of a model – I will go through these in the upcoming posts.

Painting Character Models – Typhus: Herald of Nurgle

CoastDream – Soft Moon

This series of posts will go through the steps of painting character models – building on the methods and techniques used to paint the death guard army, last year.

Because special characters tend to be centerpiece miniatures, they benefit from more detail and attention than rank and file figures require.

It also aids their characterization to create thematic bases.

So, over the next few posts, I will cover these aspects. From prepping models, to more advanced painting skills – like blending, weathering, and using spot colours.

I will also try to make a tutorial on basing – but I haven’t figured out a design yet.


Helpful stuff


  • Plastic cutters, for removing bits from sprues.
  • Super glue & plastic glue
  • Pin vice
  • Precision tweezers – mainly for attaching fiddly bits and bobs
  • Craft knife
  • Metal wire
  • File – for removing mould lines

Although this model is plastic, and shouldn’t need any pinning – it can be helpful if you’re going to undertake conversions.

Painting Plague Marines (Rank & File)

Moonshake ‘Gravity’ 

It proved a bit gruelling, for some reason, painting these:



However, the paint scheme itself is pretty straightforward. The specific paints/colours I’ve used are not all-important – they were intended to tie-in with a larger force; mainly composed of Khorne/Black Legion Chaos Space Marines. They were also meant to be quick to paint.

These are the basic colours used:


The models were bought second-hand, a few years ago now; and I modified them slightly, as you can see from the green parts:



Painting the armour

1) Rhinox Hide (GW):



2) Bronze Green (VMC):


3) Wash: i. Olive Green (VMA) + Smoke (VMC). ii. Wash with Smoke on its own (VMC):


4) Edge Highlight: i. Bronze Green (VMC) + Rotting Flesh (GW). ii. Rotting Flesh on its own:


5) Glaze: i. Thraka Green (GW). ii. Smoke (VMC):


It isn’t strictly vital to use this final glaze of Smoke; but while Thraka Green smoothes out the previous layers, the Smoke colour adds a bit of warmth, and also makes the overall appearance look a bit murkier and less clean than, say, Dark Angels’ power armour tends to.

Painting the Buboes

These were the colours used – most of them, at least; I forgot to include the brighter red colour:



To paint the buboes:

  1. Basecoat: Rhinox Hide.
  2. Burnt Cadmium Red (VMC)
  3. Burnt Cadmium Red + Red (VMC)
  4. Red + Trollslayer Orange (GW)
  5. Trollslayer Orange + Plague Brown (VGC)
  6. Plague Brown
  7. Plague Brown + Rotting Flesh (GW)
  8. Glaze: Baal Red (GW).

You can see how the colours were applied:



And then how the glaze ties these all together:



I also give them a final glaze with a thinned-down layer of water effect.

Creating the blood-effect

The materials used for this are, firstly, a piece of nylon thread – you can buy proper modelling versions of this, or use fishing line; but I just use the kind which attach labels to clothes:



Also: PVA glue, epoxy glue, and superglue; along with Tamiya clear red paint and black artist’s ink:



First, fix the nylon thread into place using dots of PVA. This won’t prove hardy, but it means you can manoeuvre the thread carefully into place. Once this has dried, reinforce the bond with small dots of superglue (using a cocktail stick, or something similar):


Create the texture using epoxy glue – dot some on top of the thread, and some underneath it:



You can use water effects, which is easier to apply, and less toxic than epoxy; but it is less able to withstand handling. I usually use a cocktail stick to stipple the glue, just before it has fully cured, in order to make it less smooth, and look more naturalistic.

Once the epoxy has dried, mix the Tamiya clear red paint with a small amount of black ink, to create the bloody-colour:


Stipple this on using and old brush:


And with that, ’tis done: