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Category Archives: Tutorials

Mendicant (2)

Miniatures ‘Honey’ 

 

I’ve finished the basic painting of the Mendicant figure:

 

I painted the skin on this model slightly differently to the dark tone of the Cherubhim – as using Rhinox Hide left it looking a bit formless.

The surrounding areas were kept fairly simple, and muted, in order to avoid overshadowing the faces.

 

Skin

1) German Cam. Black Brown

2) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

3) Rhinox Hide

4) Mournfang Brown

5) Mournfang brown + Ushabti bone (add increasing amounts of Ushabti bone, over successive layers, to highlight: less is more, here).

6) Glaze: smoke.

Hourglass

1) Black

2) The Fang

3) The Fang + Fenrisian grey

4) Paint the sand using Zamesi desert

5) Wash over the glass/sand with the same smoke + tank brown + black mix as above.

6) Highlight the glass using Fenrisian grey, and the sand using Zamesi desert + khaki

7) glaze: asurmen blue, then smoke.

Skulls

1) USA Olive Brown

2) Earth + Fenrisian grey (drybrush this)

3) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

4) Drybrush Earth + Fenrisian grey again

5) Add Rakarth flesh to the above mix (drybrush)

6) Wash: USA olive brown

7) Edge highlight with Rakarth flesh

8) Glaze: smoke

I also painted the hair with these colours – but added white instead of Rakarth flesh to the mix, so that it would catch the eye; and ensure the faces remained the focal point of the miniature.

Staff

1) Leather brown

2) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

3) Drybrush leather brown

4) Drybrush  leather brown + zamesi desert

5) Drybrush khaki

6) Paint scratches/edges with khaki

7) Glaze: smoke

 

It needs freehand designs painting on it, now; which will be based on Maasai patterns. This may take some time.

 

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Cherubim – painting dark skin.

Deftones ‘elite’ 

I had problems with painting dark skin, when trying to make the Khemrian rider look Arabian – so I took a different approach this time.

Rather than use dark brown, I used a dark reddish brown – i.e. Rhinox Hide; which looks more natural:

 

To paint dark skin

Colours needed:

Basecoat: Rhinox Hide

Wash: black + dark brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + small amount of Mournfang Brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre (2:1)

Edge highlight: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre + small amount of Khaki

Paint extreme highlights on areas like the knuckles, by adding Ushabti Bone into the above mix.

Glaze all over with a very thin layer of Rhinox Hide; and then with Seraphim Sepia.

 

A difficulty posed by painting the skin dark is that if you paint the surrounding areas in light colours, it detracts from the main body of the model – so a bit of planning beforehand is helpful.

Alternatively, a fair bit of trial and error….

For the scheme of the overall collection of models, though, I’m going to try and move away from the European-Gothic theme, which tends be quite generic in Warhammer; and use patterns and colours from African, Middle Eastern, and Indian art.

You can see some of these motifs in the old Tomb Kings models – and the even older Al Mukhtar’s Desert warriors; but there’s not much to go on in Warhammer miniatures/artwork.

Thankfully, there is plenty of real world reference material around, to take inspiration from. I might make a post about this in more detail.

 

 

 

 

Inquisitor/Dark Millennium – using greenstuff. A sort of guide.

School of Fish ‘three strange days’ 

 

My sculpting skills are not very good – so my advice is only worth as much as you’re paying for it.

However, the basics of using greenstuff – or any similar epoxy putty – are reasonably straightforward.

You don’t really need to buy lots of fancy tools, as a cocktail stick will suffice for most purposes; but if you want to develop your skills a bit, then the following are helpful:

The KY jelly is to lubricate your…sculpting tools.

You can just use water, but it tends to flood the putty easily. Some people use Vaseline or olive oil instead – but these are liable to affect the adhesion of paint; whereas a water-based lubricant can be washed-off easily.

Epoxy putty:

Which turns into green stuff when you’ve kneaded it together:

If the putty is new, it’s best to wait 15-20 minutes after kneading it together, before you start sculpting; otherwise it tends not to retain its shape. If it’s old, you shouldn’t need to wait.

These are the sculpting tools that I use most often:

Colour shapers can be used for smoothing putty out – but they’re not strictly necessary; and can be quite pricey:

A craft knife, tweezers and a cocktail stick – for general purposes:

Mug of water:

I usually keep sculpting work simple, as when it goes wrong it can look a bit duff; but it is often necessary to plug gaps. So, it’s worth learning how to use greenstuff properly.

It was mainly needed for a bit of repair work here, but also to add some detail. You can see the damaged plastic around the shoulder area:

Along with the lower-left side of the back:

So, dot some KY jelly on a suitable palette; and use this to keep your sculpting tools lubricated:

To begin, roll a small piece of putty, and put it into place:

Smooth it down – shaping it to match the surrounding contours:

Because I wanted this to look like a bio-mechanic figure, I added some copper wire; and blended it into the skin with putty: 

It was much the same with the left side of the model:

Organic shapes are fairly easy, and are a good place to start if you’re new to sculpting. Straight edges require a bit more precision to look right:

I think the key is just practice – to be patient, and build layers up gradually. Confidence also makes a difference, too – but don’t be afraid to remove the putty and start over again, if it goes wrong.

 

Quranin – Supreme Commander of the Adeptus Caliphate (Inquisitor)

Deftones ‘Minerva’ 

I had an idea a long time ago about making a female Space Marine – and it kind of developed into a detailed theme.

Unfortunately, there weren’t really the suitable models until recently; so it ended up being left aside.

But with the release of the Dark Imperium models, it seemed now would be a good opportunity to finally make one – as the leader of a small Inquisitor retinue.

 

I thought it might be helpful to demonstrate how the model was converted. Useful tools:

I’ll go through using these properly in future blogposts.

As you can see, the body was the Dark Imperium officer – with head from the Sisters of Avalorn set; and an Eldar wraithsword.

It’s the same head I used on the Khemrian rider – as there still aren’t many female heads available:

After the pieces were pinned, gaps needed filling with greenstuff:

It’s best to build this up in stages, otherwise it won’t retain its shape:

I added a sight to the gun:

Along with a pipe and targeter to the hood:

Finally, a skull to the backpack, to make it look a bit more inquisitorial:

I have a few ideas for other figures to include in this group – such as a navigator, an arco-flagellant, and an imperial guardswoman.

But they need a foe…

Dire Wolves Diorama Revisited (3)

Trail of Dead ‘Another morning stoner’ 

Not quite finished, but near enough. I decided not to make a backdrop after all – but to just add detail to the rear of the walls; and thought it might be helpful to demonstrate how this was done.

I used some balsa wood to cover the join:

To make the ivy strands, you need some thin wire (plus superglue/cutters etc):

And silver birch seed pods:

 

Create the ivy stems by building up the wire framework:

Paint over this with textured-paint:

 

Then paint the wall, ivy, and wood with an exciting array of greys and browns:

 

Glue the seed pods on with PVA:

I thought it looked a bit off, somehow – so removed a few as you can see:

Add cobwebs (I made a previous tutorial on this):

If you find that the finished webs look a bit white, just glaze them with brown/green:

Done. Sort of:

I think it needs something on the left-hand side, to balance the overall scene out – but haven’t got a clear idea yet.

Dire Wolves Diorama Revisited (2) – painting skin

The Wall ‘Vault’ 

A short tutorial on how to paint skin/faces. The photos are a bit ad-hoc.

These were the paints used:

For the shading wash – mix purple, brown, black and red in equal parts:

First, paint the skin with Cadian fleshtone; then use the shading wash:

Layer with Bugman’s glow; then highlight with pure Cadian fleshtone:

Add further highlights, using a mix of Cadian fleshtone + ushabti bone + a small amount of the green-grey:

 

Edge highlight with pure ushabti bone, and use pure white on select areas of the face – such as around the eyes, and the side of the mouth – to add expression:

 

The paint the eyes themselves, use light grey; then dot with black.

For the teeth – use zamesi desert, then highlight with ushabti bone.

For the lower lip – Bugman’s glow; then highlight by adding ushabti bone.

The boil was painted red, then Bugman’s glow, then dotted with rotting flesh.

To finish, glaze the skin areas with brown.

 

I tried to add texture to the cloth, to make it look like a kind of rough-hewn peasant garb. It’s basically just an admixture of stippling, and drybrushing – but using slower, deliberate strokes of the brush:

When the diorama is finished, the positioning should look something like this:

 

Painting a death guard army (8) – a step by step guide to the Malignant Plaguecaster (part 2)

Curve ‘Killer Baby’

Updates have proven a bit erratic lately, as I’ve been caught-up in non-painting-related things.

However, the last post covered basecoating. This one is about shading and highlighting.

 

To shade:

  • Paint several overall washes of Agrellan earth.
  • Wash the flesh areas/face with Reikland Fleshshade.
  • Wash the cloud of smoke, intestines, and the recesses of the face with Druchii violet.

 

To highlight:

  • Horns on head: edge highlight with Khaki
  • Leather areas: edge highlight with earth
  • Head dress: edge highlight with orange brown
  • Jewel (at the base of the staff): snot green + scorpion green, then scorpion green
  • Face: Pallid Wych flesh
  • Eyes: dot with Trollslayer orange, then Tau light ochre
  • Boils: dot with Elysian green

 

I’ve also finished the Bloat Drone:

 

The painting method was the same as with the Plague Marines; but as it’s a centrepiece model, I decided to add some slime.

To create the slime effect, use the following paints:

And epoxy glue: 

Plus nylon thread (i.e. an annoying clothes tag):

Attach pieces of the nylon thread, with epoxy glue; and build up the slime effect:

 

Paint the slime with Elysian green:

 

Wash with Agrellan earth:

Paint with several layers of Tamiya green + yellow:

Done:

Just one model left to paint, now.