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Category Archives: Tutorials

Primaris Legion of the Damned (2) – painting metal

Taproot – Believed

 

Just a work in progress post, really – but I thought I would go through painting the metal areas.

I’m trying to improve my technique a bit – and create brighter, cleaner paint schemes than I usually manage.

 

Although Legion of the Damned models tend to be painted with silver trims, I decided to make them gold, as I think it suits the theme of fire and change better.

 

 

For painting gold, the paints used:

 

For the silver areas, paints used:

 

To shade/glaze both metals, I used:

 

 

Painting Silver

Base: Gunmetal

Shade 1: wash all over with several thin layers of Nuln Oil + Abaddon Black. This helps define details, so it reveals where to place highlights.

Shade 2: wash the recesses with Nuln Oil/Abaddon black, then wash all-over with Agrax Earthshade.

Highlight 1: Gunmetal

Highlight 2: Gunmetal + Chainmail

Edge highlight: pure Chainmail – then add Metallic Medium, to highlight corners/points. I then painted blink-dots with pure Metallic Medium.

Glaze: Nuln Oil + Naggaroth Night + Lahmian Medium, all over the silver areas.

 

 

Painting Gold

Base: Balthasar Gold

Shade 1: several thin washes of Nuln Oil + Abaddon Black (all over)

Highlight 1: Balthasar Gold + Glorious Gold

Highlight 2: Glorious Gold

Shade 2: wash Seraphim Sepia (all over).

Wash Seraphim Sepia + Rhinox Hide (recesses)

Wash Nuln Oil + Rhinox Hide (deepest recesses)

Edge Highlight 1: Glorious Gold (all over)

Edge Highlight 2: Polished Gold (prominent edges)

Edge Highlight 3: Polished Gold + Metallic Medium (corners/points). As before, add blink-dots with pure metallic medium.

Glaze: Nuln Oil + Naggaroth Night + Lahmian Medium (all over).

I glazed the metals purple in order to give them a slightly sinister hue. You could just use Druchii Violet – but I wanted the colour to be quite dark.

I will make a tutorial for painting ethereal black power armour in the next post, hopefully.

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Typhus (11) – painting the base

Husker Du – private plane 

 

Use spraypaint to begin – I used black, but it doesn’t matter too much:

 

Paint the basecolours

The rocks: Stormvermin Fur

Skeletal bits: Fenrisian grey + Vallejo Earth

Slime: Warpstone Glow

Maggots: Khaki

Flesh: Bugman’s glow

Soil: Stirland battlemire

 

Give the base an overall wash of black + dark brown:

This shades the various parts of the base – but it also helps to keep the overall effect consistent. I then began working on individual details – some required additional washes, as noted below.

 

To paint the nurgling/flesh

Base: Bugman’s Glow

Layer: Cadian Fleshtone

Wash: red+purple+black+brown

Highlight: Cadian Fleshtone + Krieg Khaki

Edge Highlight: Krieg Khaki

 

To paint the maggots

Base: Khaki

Wash: Vallejo Olive Green + Vallejo Smoke

Layer: Khaki

Glaze: Moot Green + Smoke

 

To paint the slime

Base: Warpstone Glow

Layer: Warpstone Glow + Elysian Green

Wash: Vallejo Olive Green + Smoke

Highlight: Elysian Green

Edge Highlight: 1) Elysian Green + Yriel Yellow 2) Add white

Glaze: Vallejo Olive Green + Smoke

 

To paint the intestines

Base: Xereus Purple + Screamer pink

Wash: black + smoke

Layer: Xereus Purple + Screamer pink

Highlight: add Krieg Khaki (it’s best to keep this stage minimal and very fine)

Glaze: a very thin coat of Xereus Purple + Screamer pink

 

To paint the skeletal bits and bobs

Base: Fenrisian Grey + Earth

Wash: black +vallejo smoke

Layer: Fenrisian Grey + Earth

Highlight: Fenrisian Grey + Earth + White

Edge highlight: add more white

Glaze: smoke

 

To paint the rocks 

Base: Stormvermin Fur

Wash: black + Smoke

Drybrush: Stormvermin Fur + German Camouflage black brown

Drybrush: Stormvermin Fur

Drybrush: Stormvermin Fur +Rakarth Flesh

Glaze: 1) black + smoke 2) Vallejo tank brown

Wash around the base of rocks/in crevices: 1) Tau light ochre 2) Castellan Green

Light drybrush: 1) Stormvermin Fur +Rakarth Flesh 2) Rakarth Flesh

Glaze: smoke

 

To paint the sandy areas

Base: Stirland battlemire

Drybrush: Zamesi desert

Drybrush: Nurgling green

Paint small stones grey

Wash all over: Castellan green

Glaze: smoke

 

I finished by adding static grass/flock, which was washed with green/brown – to blend it in with the rest of the base.

Typhus (10) – making a detailed gaming base

9bach – llyn du

 

This isn’t intended to be a display-base, as such – because it needs to compliment the bases on the other Death Guard models, painted last year.

With Typhus being a centerpiece model, though, it will benefit from being a bit more detailed.

So a step-by-step guide.

Cork tile, arranged in the vague shape of a Nurgle symbol – attached with PVA glue:

 

Cover the cork with wood putty, and the rest of the base with sand:

 

Add some gravel:

 

Scatter sand lightly over this, to blend it with the rest of the base:

 

Seal the base with a wash of PVA (5 parts water to 1 part glue):

 

Add details – I find it helpful to dot superglue on, then add PVA before attaching plastic bits:

 

I added more maggots – using pieces of old plastic skaven tails:

 

Create viscera, by placing PVA in places:

 

Use a cocktail stick, and dab it in superglue – then drag the PVA around to make trails of gunk:

 

I think I went a bit over the top here, but nevermind:

 

Use greenstuff to create any additional details – in this case, intestines:

 

I then used UHU stretchy glue/epoxy glue to make finer pieces of slime (see a previous post for more on this method):

 

I’m going to put a nurgling on the base, but haven’t attached it yet:

 

I will go through painting this base in the next post.

 

Typhus (8) – painting the hive

REM – green grow the rushes

 

To paint the hive smoke, I used the following colours:

 

The green fumes were a bit experimental – I would have liked to spend more time trying different approaches, but time is a bit constrained at the moment:

 

 

Basecoat – Rakarth Flesh +Moot Green (1:1)

Wash – Rakarth Flesh + Black + Smoke

Layer – the basecoat mix

Highlight I) – basecoat + Yriel Yellow + a bit more Rakarth Flesh

Highlight II) – add white to the above mix

Glaze – I) Yriel Yellow II) Moot Green

I then gave the fumes a final highlight, by painting select areas with a watery layer of Rakarth Flesh.

 

I have noticed that a fair few versions of Typhus online are missing the cloud of flies – perhaps because they are so fiddly to paint.

But the pink flesh is just Bugman’s glow, then Cadian Fleshtone; wash with a mix of black + smoke + Khorne red + Xereus purple.

Re-highlight with Cadian Fleshtone, then Kislev Flesh; edge highlight with Krieg Khaki.

I finished by glazing over them with a Moot green + Smoke mix , to try and make it seem as if the fumes were clinging to the flies’ bodies.

 

Typhus (6) – painting white + using spot colours

Deus – Via

 

White can be an awkward colour to paint. So a step by step guide – plus, a bit about spot colours.

Colours needed:

 

Base – Earth + Fenrisian Grey (1:1):

 

Wash all over with USA Olive Brown:

 

Wash the recesses with Smoke:

 

Layer – Earth + Fenrisian Grey (1:1):

Add white to the above mix:

Add more white to the mix:

I avoided taking this up to pure white, as the helmet should be the focal point of the model – and so needs to be slightly lighter in colour than any other white areas.

It also looked a bit clean for an ancient set of bandages – so I shaded them down, with washes of brown/ochre:

 

I thought painting it up as a regular scythe looked slightly bland – so I turned it into a deamonic weapon. Painting the wooden area up as flesh; with eyes on one side of the handle:

And an unhealthy green glow on the reverse:

 

White was the spot colour on this model. But it kind of involved breaking the rules, really.

A spot colour is intended to make the model look more distinct, by contrasting with the main colours of a paint scheme – which usually compliment each other.

However, in this case, that was the green armour and the fleshy pink – which are polar opposites. So white was a neutral shade, falling between the two.

It’s usually best to imagine a triangle shape before placing the spot colour – such as the head, and the two hands. In this case, it was the helmet, the skull, and the bandages on the scythe.

It’s not life-changing information – but it may prove helpful, when planning-out painting in the future.

Typhus (4) – painting death guard armour

Green colours tend to be either warm (highlighted by adding yellow) or cold (add white).

I used a cold shade on Typhus – partly so it would remain consistent with the other death guard army models; but also because it would act as a contrast for weathering.

 

Paints used:

 

Basecoat – Loren Forest:

 

Shade – wash with black + smoke:

 

Layer – Loren Forest + a small amount of the black /smoke mix:

Adding black/smoke doesn’t make a huge difference – but it creates a smoother transition between layers.

 

Layer – Loren Forest + Death Guard Green:

 

Layer – pure Death Guard Green:

 

Wash – I used a thin layer of smoke to redefine the armour here. It’s not strictly necessary, but I find it helpful:

 

Layer: Death Guard Green + Nurgling Green:

 

Because Nurgling Green contains a fair amount of white, it leads to a slightly chalky effect – as can be seen on the underside of the arm:

But this is helpful – as the splotches and marks will serve as a guide for painting damage.

 

Paint scratches/chips with black+ smoke:

 

Highlight the edges of the armour and the damage with Nurgling Green. On the largest chips, use Nurgling Green + White:

 

Glaze over all the armour with Olive Green:

 

Glaze around the recesses with a dark purple (black + burnt cadmium red + xereus purple + smoke), and inside the recesses with a lighter version of the mix (i.e. omit black):

I thought this added a bruising effect.

 

Apply a final glaze over all of the armour with a yellow-ochre colour – I used leather brown, as I didn’t want the armour to look too warm:

If you find that glazing results in unwanted patches, stipple over these gently with Death Guard Green – which will blend them into the surrounding area.

If the edges lose their definition, re-highlight with Nurgling Green.

 

When glazing, I used a gel medium:

This is not vital, but it does make the paint easier to control on a model which is as curved and heavily recessed as Typhus. 

Typhus (3) – basecoating!

New Order – Procession 

 

Basecoating is not the most enjoyable stage of painting; but it’s the foundation of the finished miniature. So it’s worth being thorough.

Rather than use this post to go through paint recipes, I thought it would be more helpful to discuss some general guidelines for painting complex miniatures.

Before you begin, I would recommend investing in a notebook, to keep a record of any paints used – because it’s easy to forget. You can also use the pad to sketch out freehand designs; or jot down ideas for bases.

It’s also worth using different kinds of brushes, for various painting tasks:

From top to bottom:

  • Old brushes, with splayed bristles – used for stippling or drybrushing.
  • New Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes, which are used for fine detail.
  • Cheap brushes, which are used for painting larger areas; or applying washes and glazes.
  • Another cheap brush, with flat bristles – which is used to paint large, flat areas/ drybrushing. I mainly use this for painting textured areas on bases.

 

And as a final preparatory stage…planning your colour scheme. This is not vital – because if something ends up looking wrong, you can always paint over it. But it is worthwhile giving some thought to it, before you begin painting.

A bit of research – or even the colour schemes suggested by Games Workshop – are good places to start, if you’re stuck for inspiration.

These were the colours I used, but I will go through them in more detail at a later date:

 

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As always, the golden rule is to thin your paints: several diluted layers of paint are usually better than one heavy application.

But how thin? There isn’t really a definitive answer. Paints themselves vary in density – and sometimes don’t need to be thinned down: for example, when drybrushing.

As a rough guide though, I recommend a paint-to-water ratio of at least 2 parts paint to 1 part water. I mainly use paint of that thickness when applying the first layer – but then thin it slightly for successive layers; so it has a ratio of 2:2.

It needs to be watered-down further for washes (c. 1 part paint to 4 parts water), and at its thinnest for glazes (c. 1:8).

I can’t make diagrams, but I’ve demonstrated this below:

From left to bottom-right (ignore the top-right splotch of paint):

  • Undiluted paint
  • Paint thinned with water (2:1)
  • Paint thinned with water (2:2)
  • Wash (1: 4)
  • Glaze (1: 8)

Ultimately, it requires trial and error: if paint is too thick, it obscures details, and looks rough. If it’s too thin, it runs uncontrollably – and will require inordinate layers, if you want to create a solid coat.

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When applying basecoats, I start with the largest area; which was the armour here:

It usually takes 3-4 thin layers of paint, before it looks opaque.

I find it best to complete sections one at a time (e.g. an arm) rather than trying to finish the whole of the armour at once – otherwise it feels like you’re getting nowhere.

I would also recommend viewing the model from multiple angles, to make sure you haven’t missed any parts:

As you can see, the underside of the model’s right arm looks a bit patchy, and required more layers of paint.

When the bascoat colours are done, you can get a clear picture of what the finished model will be like (I know it looks as if Typhus is wearing brown shoes here – bear with me):

As before, really, it’s best to double-check/tidy-up the model at this stage.

Once you’re happy with it, apply an all-over wash of black+brown, in several thin layers:

This adds shading – but for present purposes, it brings out details; which makes it much easier to paint them later.

Before:

After:

Ensure each wash has dried before adding another layer, though – otherwise it will remove any paint which is still wet. Extra attention is sometimes required for deeper recesses (like underneath the shoulder plates).

You may get a pooling effect in places – if so, just leave these to dry; as they can be painted over during subsequent stages.

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Once all of this is complete, you can focus on the individual aspects of a model – I will go through these in the upcoming posts.