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Category Archives: Tutorials

Arco-Flagellant (3) – painting electric flails

Suede ‘electricity’

 

How to paint electric flails – this took a lot of trial and error, so it wasn’t really possible to take work in progress shots; but the basic method is fairly straightforward.

Paints needed:

 

Base: black.

Layer: Caledor Sky.

Paint the area around the power-source (i.e. the wrists), and energy lines: Temple Guard Blue.

Wash: Caledor sky.

Highlight the energy lines: Baharroth blue. Add white, to highlight the lines nearest the power-source, and to paint small sparks/flashes in random places.

Glaze: Royal blue + a small amount of Smoke.

 

 

White paint contains a lot of pigment, so when you add it to the blue it becomes quite chalky. Glazing smooths this out; and also helps to create the impression of an underlying glow.

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Arco-Flagellant (2) – painting metal areas

m83 – claudia lewis

 

I wanted the metal areas on the arco-flagellant to look cleaner and brighter than I usually make them.

 

Paints needed

To paint the brass areas

Base: Tin Bitz + Dwarf Bronze + German cam. black brown

Shade: wash with smoke + black

Highlight: 1) Tin Bitz + Dwarf Bronze 2) Dwarf Bronze

Paint chips/cracks: black + brown

Edge highlight: glorious gold

 

 

To paint the steel areas

Base: Gunmetal

Shade: wash with black + smoke

Highlight: 1) Gunmetal + small amount of Tin Bitz 2) gunmetal

Paint chips/cracks: black/brown

Edge highlight: chainmail silver

 

Glazing can add tincture to the metals – in this case, a bit of warmth.

Although it can be tedious, 4-6 thin coats will give a smoother and more consistent effect than 1-2 heavy applications. So:

1) Glaze all metal areas with several thin layers of Seraphim Sepia.

2) Glaze the steel areas with Reikland Flesh.

3) Glaze the brass areas with Druchii violet.

4) Paint the recesses of all metal areas with Agrax Earthshade.

 

I haven’t figured out how to paint the black armour yet; but I will make a step by step guide to painting the electric flails next.

 

Mendicant (2)

Miniatures ‘Honey’ 

 

I’ve finished the basic painting of the Mendicant figure:

 

I painted the skin on this model slightly differently to the dark tone of the Cherubhim – as using Rhinox Hide left it looking a bit formless.

The surrounding areas were kept fairly simple, and muted, in order to avoid overshadowing the faces.

 

Skin

1) German Cam. Black Brown

2) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

3) Rhinox Hide

4) Mournfang Brown

5) Mournfang brown + Ushabti bone (add increasing amounts of Ushabti bone, over successive layers, to highlight: less is more, here).

6) Glaze: smoke.

Hourglass

1) Black

2) The Fang

3) The Fang + Fenrisian grey

4) Paint the sand using Zamesi desert

5) Wash over the glass/sand with the same smoke + tank brown + black mix as above.

6) Highlight the glass using Fenrisian grey, and the sand using Zamesi desert + khaki

7) glaze: asurmen blue, then smoke.

Skulls

1) USA Olive Brown

2) Earth + Fenrisian grey (drybrush this)

3) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

4) Drybrush Earth + Fenrisian grey again

5) Add Rakarth flesh to the above mix (drybrush)

6) Wash: USA olive brown

7) Edge highlight with Rakarth flesh

8) Glaze: smoke

I also painted the hair with these colours – but added white instead of Rakarth flesh to the mix, so that it would catch the eye; and ensure the faces remained the focal point of the miniature.

Staff

1) Leather brown

2) Wash: smoke + tank brown + black

3) Drybrush leather brown

4) Drybrush  leather brown + zamesi desert

5) Drybrush khaki

6) Paint scratches/edges with khaki

7) Glaze: smoke

 

It needs freehand designs painting on it, now; which will be based on Maasai patterns. This may take some time.

 

Cherubim – painting dark skin.

Deftones ‘elite’ 

I had problems with painting dark skin, when trying to make the Khemrian rider look Arabian – so I took a different approach this time.

Rather than use dark brown, I used a dark reddish brown – i.e. Rhinox Hide; which looks more natural:

 

To paint dark skin

Colours needed:

Basecoat: Rhinox Hide

Wash: black + dark brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + small amount of Mournfang Brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre (2:1)

Edge highlight: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre + small amount of Khaki

Paint extreme highlights on areas like the knuckles, by adding Ushabti Bone into the above mix.

Glaze all over with a very thin layer of Rhinox Hide; and then with Seraphim Sepia.

 

A difficulty posed by painting the skin dark is that if you paint the surrounding areas in light colours, it detracts from the main body of the model – so a bit of planning beforehand is helpful.

Alternatively, a fair bit of trial and error….

For the scheme of the overall collection of models, though, I’m going to try and move away from the European-Gothic theme, which tends be quite generic in Warhammer; and use patterns and colours from African, Middle Eastern, and Indian art.

You can see some of these motifs in the old Tomb Kings models – and the even older Al Mukhtar’s Desert warriors; but there’s not much to go on in Warhammer miniatures/artwork.

Thankfully, there is plenty of real world reference material around, to take inspiration from. I might make a post about this in more detail.

 

 

 

 

Inquisitor/Dark Millennium – using greenstuff. A sort of guide.

School of Fish ‘three strange days’ 

 

My sculpting skills are not very good – so my advice is only worth as much as you’re paying for it.

However, the basics of using greenstuff – or any similar epoxy putty – are reasonably straightforward.

You don’t really need to buy lots of fancy tools, as a cocktail stick will suffice for most purposes; but if you want to develop your skills a bit, then the following are helpful:

The KY jelly is to lubricate your…sculpting tools.

You can just use water, but it tends to flood the putty easily. Some people use Vaseline or olive oil instead – but these are liable to affect the adhesion of paint; whereas a water-based lubricant can be washed-off easily.

Epoxy putty:

Which turns into green stuff when you’ve kneaded it together:

If the putty is new, it’s best to wait 15-20 minutes after kneading it together, before you start sculpting; otherwise it tends not to retain its shape. If it’s old, you shouldn’t need to wait.

These are the sculpting tools that I use most often:

Colour shapers can be used for smoothing putty out – but they’re not strictly necessary; and can be quite pricey:

A craft knife, tweezers and a cocktail stick – for general purposes:

Mug of water:

I usually keep sculpting work simple, as when it goes wrong it can look a bit duff; but it is often necessary to plug gaps. So, it’s worth learning how to use greenstuff properly.

It was mainly needed for a bit of repair work here, but also to add some detail. You can see the damaged plastic around the shoulder area:

Along with the lower-left side of the back:

So, dot some KY jelly on a suitable palette; and use this to keep your sculpting tools lubricated:

To begin, roll a small piece of putty, and put it into place:

Smooth it down – shaping it to match the surrounding contours:

Because I wanted this to look like a bio-mechanic figure, I added some copper wire; and blended it into the skin with putty: 

It was much the same with the left side of the model:

Organic shapes are fairly easy, and are a good place to start if you’re new to sculpting. Straight edges require a bit more precision to look right:

I think the key is just practice – to be patient, and build layers up gradually. Confidence also makes a difference, too – but don’t be afraid to remove the putty and start over again, if it goes wrong.

 

Quranin – Supreme Commander of the Adeptus Caliphate (Inquisitor)

Deftones ‘Minerva’ 

I had an idea a long time ago about making a female Space Marine – and it kind of developed into a detailed theme.

Unfortunately, there weren’t really the suitable models until recently; so it ended up being left aside.

But with the release of the Dark Imperium models, it seemed now would be a good opportunity to finally make one – as the leader of a small Inquisitor retinue.

 

I thought it might be helpful to demonstrate how the model was converted. Useful tools:

I’ll go through using these properly in future blogposts.

As you can see, the body was the Dark Imperium officer – with head from the Sisters of Avalorn set; and an Eldar wraithsword.

It’s the same head I used on the Khemrian rider – as there still aren’t many female heads available:

After the pieces were pinned, gaps needed filling with greenstuff:

It’s best to build this up in stages, otherwise it won’t retain its shape:

I added a sight to the gun:

Along with a pipe and targeter to the hood:

Finally, a skull to the backpack, to make it look a bit more inquisitorial:

I have a few ideas for other figures to include in this group – such as a navigator, an arco-flagellant, and an imperial guardswoman.

But they need a foe…

Dire Wolves Diorama Revisited (3)

Trail of Dead ‘Another morning stoner’ 

Not quite finished, but near enough. I decided not to make a backdrop after all – but to just add detail to the rear of the walls; and thought it might be helpful to demonstrate how this was done.

I used some balsa wood to cover the join:

To make the ivy strands, you need some thin wire (plus superglue/cutters etc):

And silver birch seed pods:

 

Create the ivy stems by building up the wire framework:

Paint over this with textured-paint:

 

Then paint the wall, ivy, and wood with an exciting array of greys and browns:

 

Glue the seed pods on with PVA:

I thought it looked a bit off, somehow – so removed a few as you can see:

Add cobwebs (I made a previous tutorial on this):

If you find that the finished webs look a bit white, just glaze them with brown/green:

Done. Sort of:

I think it needs something on the left-hand side, to balance the overall scene out – but haven’t got a clear idea yet.