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Felt ‘Cathedral’ 


I’m not quite ready to begin painting the Inquisitor retinue yet; so in the meantime, I decided to finish the models from last year, which needed a bit of improvement.

One is the Blanchian figure – I wasn’t keen on the banner, or the candle flames:

So, I’ve redone these:

The model was partly based on the anti-war paintings of Otto Dix – so I changed the banner from a Nurgley one, to an Imperial Guard design, which seemed more fitting:

I’m going to make some minor adjustments to the Night Goblin Shaman; and then I should be done.


Work in progress (17)

Hooverphonic ‘Magenta’

I’ve pretty much finished the Arabian rider:




I wanted the character to have a subtle Tzeentchian aspect – so painted the jewel to resemble an eye:



I’m not entirely happy with the interior cloak, though – I tried various freehand designs, but they all looked crumby. For example:


So, I ended up just painting tears in the fabric:


It still looks a bit bare, but I can’t think of any decent design which would work. I will finish the display base now, though; and see if anything occurs in the meantime.

Make The Dead Glorious Again (10) – work in progress: Arabian horse

Stretch Princess ‘J.W.B.A.’

I was going to paint the horse white, but thought that grey looked less Elven:

Horses can be tricky to paint, as they’re not really like any other models – having large areas which are smooth and curved; with a fairly unique type of skin. Heavy shading can make them look gaunt, rather than sleek; so it’s helpful not to use overly dark colours in the recessed parts.

With that in mind, the grey skin was basecoated with USA Olive Brown; then highlighted by applying successive layers of the brown + increased amounts of Dark Sea Grey:

The horse’s hair was painted similarly – but using rakarth flesh, instead of dark sea grey; and adding final highlights of white in select places to create a faint sheen.

To paint the nose/mouth area, create a basecoat of black + earth; then highlight by adding Cadian fleshtone to the mix. Finish by adding Kislev flesh to this mixture:

Finish by glazing the horse all over with several thin layers of USA olive brown.

I intend to paint the horse’s armour as turquoise marble; but I have a feeling it won’t look right, and may require a different design – we will see, however.

Redemptionists (1)

Holst ‘Jupiter’

I’ve been interested in the Blanchitsu-themed models that sites such as Ironsleet, Legion of Plastic, and the Convertorum – amongst others – have been making for a while now. Mostly these are kit-bashed Inquisitor warbands; which explore the narrative background of the Warhammer 40,000 universe – often inspired by John Blanche’s sketches and paintings.

I’m not so keen on the Inquisition as a theme, but I like the Necromunda artwork and setting; so decided to make a small project based on the Underhive. I made a previous diorama based on the Scavvies last year; so in this case, decided to make a group of their arch foes – the Redemptionists.

The initial idea for this was just to create a figure based on the old Klovis The Redeemer model; but I figured such a Quixotic personality needs a Sancho Panza-esque henchman. Or two. Then I finally decided to create a small Necromunda gang.

What I thought might be helpful for anyone new to complex modelling is to go through the basic stages of kitbashing – from cleaning and assembling bits and pieces, to using greenstuff (i.e. epoxy putty) to fill gaps, and then making a display base.

Tools needed:


Safety goggles – really only needed when clipping wire to pin pieces together. A razor saw – for making accurate cuts through thicker plastic parts. Precision tweezers. A needle file. Pin vices (you only really need one, but this saves having to change the drill bits constantly between different diameters). Plastic-clippers. A modelling knife – which I forgot to include in this picture; but this is the one I use:


Superglue/plastic cement:


Blu-tack is also invaluable when test-fitting pieces.

A bitzbox is a good investment to have, in general. It doesn’t need to be anything special – I just use this type due to the large number of odds and ends I have, as it saves a lot of time when looking for something specific:


I don’t have a particularly creative imagination, so I tend to rely on trial and error when constructing models around whatever vague vision I have – although it’s always helpful to forage around the internet, either for art or other peoples’ versions of similar models, to help your own ideas take shape.

These were the pieces gathered together, to create the central character – the Redemptor Priest:


Parts from Empire flagellants, various Adeptus Mechanicus figures, along with imperial guard kits. As noted, this really is just a case of trying things out, blu-tacking them together, and seeing what works.

To make the Redemptor Priest, I removed the torso from a flagellant body, using the razor saw:



Then used the torso from an Adeptus Skitarii – I decided to leave the gaps in the cloak, as it looks more dynamic:


For the head, I used a chaos cultist and a flagellant. Remove the arm from the cultist



Then remove the hair, using a modelling knife:


I cut the brazier off the flagellant’s head using the razor saw, then attached these together:


Book from the Empire Battle Wizard’s kit; right arm from a flagellant:


To make the left arm, I used an Adeptus Mechanicus power claw:


And the Imperial Guard sentinel chainsaw:


These were both cut and then attached as you can see:


The necklace was at the wrong angle; so to get it contoured properly, I held the model above a tealight candle to soften the plastic, which was then pushed into place with the tweezers:


To be honest, I wouldn’t recommend this, as it’s easy to melt the plastic, and damage it; but haven’t yet figured out a different method to soften it.

This figure didn’t require being pinned together, but one of the henchmen did. When drilling a few bits of plastic, a regular pin vice is fine; but if you want to drill through metal – or you’re working on something which requires a lot of drilling – it may be worth buying a pin vice which has a comfort-grip, as your hands can cramp-up quite badly.

However, these were the pieces used to make the henchman’s body – a Skaven Plague Monk:


A Vampire Counts Zombie:


Firstly, remove the legs from both models – and drill where you will attach the separate pieces:


The large hole in the centre here isn’t needed for the modelling, just for mounting the finished model on a cork to hold when it’s being painted:

026Cut some short lengths of wire:


Superglue the wire into the leg; then when that’s dried, attach it to the body:


When completed:


The bell had some scuffed areas, which often happens when removing plastic bits from sprues:


Giving it a quick file smooths it out:


My nails don’t look very clean here, I have to say. Anyway, the completed henchman – using a vulture from the Warhammer Giant kit to finish it off. This was really just to balance the model out a bit, given the lurching stance of the figure; but it also adds to the grim character of the model:


The finished Redemptionist gang:


I will make a tutorial on using greenstuff, next.

Space Hulk Diorama (14) – Librarian

Warsaw Village Band ‘Maydów’ 

I’ve begun painting the Space Marine Librarian.

Because the model is very elaborate, and made from the dreaded finecast resin, I tried to map-out the colours before focusing on individual parts of it. For instance, using yellow ochre/grey as a basecoat for areas which were subsequently painted gold/silver.

This is particularly helpful when painting metal areas; as when you thin metallic paints, it can take a significant number of layers to get a good coat. However, when you pre-paint them a similar, but non-metallic colour, you can cover them in only 1-2 layers, rather than the 6+ it normally requires:



I then began to paint the foundation layers for the various parts:



Before giving the whole model a wash with very watery black; then another wash with dark brown:



This wasn’t really done to shade the model, as such; but to delineate the detail, as models like this can be very fiddly to paint – and sometimes the finer aspects of it become virtually indistinguishable.

Not much to look at as it stands; but I intend to make a tutorial on how to paint the blue power armour next. So hopefully the next update will be a bit more interesting. Blue is a colour I tend to veer away from painting, as a rule. I also hope to make this much cleaner and brighter than I normally paint figures.

Space Hulk Diorama (8) – Tutorial: Salt-Masking

Hammock ‘Black Metallic’ 

Salt-masking is a technique for creating a weathered-effect. It has four stages: 1) paint an underlying colour 2) add salt 3) paint an overlying colour 4) remove the salt.

There are different methods for doing this – some painters use hairspray to attach the salt; but plain water works just as well. It’s much easier, too; though it takes a bit longer to dry.

Regular table salt is all that’s needed.


First, however, paint the underlying rust effect. These were the colours I used:


The first layer was Mournfang Brown, then a layer of Skrag Brown. This was then given successive washes of Flat Earth, Orange Brown, and Smoke to make it look variegated:


When you’re happy with the rust colour, and once the paint has dried, brush over it with clean water:


Then sprinkle salt onto the wet areas:


Leave to dry:


I then painted over this with silver. It’s best to use spray paint for this stage, as the salt+water bond is very weak; and comes off easily when brushed.


Once the silver paint has dried, remove the salt using a brush:


The results proved a bit underwhelming:


So, I started-over; re-painting the rust effect, and adding heavier quantities of salt in patches:



Again, it was spray-painted silver:


Once the salt was removed, the effect was more vivid:


This was washed with tank-brown/flat earth, to make it look a bit more natural:


I then covered fairly arbitrary patches with masking fluid.

I painted the door using these colours:




First, a basecoat of French Mirage Blue + Earth:


Shade with a wash of smoke; and in the recesses, a wash of black:

Highlight by stippling-on green grey, followed by stippling green-grey+rotting flesh, and then stippling rotting flesh as a final highlight:


Add a rusted effect by washing patches and recesses with Flat Earth/Tank Brown:


The masking-fluid was then removed:


It looked a little bit too cleanly-painted at this point; so I added some glazes of smoke/flat earth/tank brown, to blend the rust-patches with the surrounding areas:




Worth a look

A gloriously over the top colour-scheme & conversion (Tale Of Painters)

This year’s Golden Demon entries (Volomir)

Old but helpful rust painting tutorial (Ultrawerke)

Suspended tree sculptures (This Is Colossal)

Darkoath Chieftain by Max Faleij (Putty & Paint)

Space Hulk Diorama (6) – Tutorial: Weathering

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Fetchin’ Bones ‘Deep Blue’


This was a slightly experimental approach at heavy weathering, mainly using masking fluid:


The actual finished effect is a bit unpredictable – as it involves applying repeated layers of the masking fluid; resulting in a moment of truth, when you remove them all. It creates a patchwork, resembling chipped and rusted areas. It’s easy to overdo the effect; but don’t worry if it proves excessive, as you can paint over any patches which you wish to remove.

These are the colours I used to paint the main body of the hatch-door – USA Olive Brown, Earth, Rakarth Flesh, White:


Along with a mix of Oxid paste + Smoke  + a small amount of black:


First, I used this mixture, daubing it in random areas, to make patches of rust:


Apply masking fluid – use a cocktail stick, rather than a brush, as masking fluid is very sticky and will damage bristles:


Leave it to dry:


Layer – USA Olive Brown:


This is where the experimental element came in – which is why the step-by-step process involves a stage that wasn’t really necessary; as I then painted the hatch-door silver, and shaded it down. I should have painted the door silver first, and then USA Olive Brown, but nevermind.

Anyway, apply masking fluid:


Again, leave it to dry.


Layer – USA olive brown:


Layer – Earth:


Apply masking fluid – note how it was adjoined to previous layers of the fluid:


Layer – Earth + Rakarth flesh – again, once this has dried, add masking fluid to select areas, and leave it to cure:


Layer – Rakarth flesh


Wash with smoke – I also painted a thin wash of black into the recesses:


I painted a layer of Rakarth flesh, but this time drybrushing/stippling it on, to create a faint texture:


Using the same method, add a layer of Rakarth flesh + white:


The moment of truth….


I added rust effects using flat earth, and tank brown:


As you can see, the paint was very watery, and applied in random areas:


It’s not strictly necessary to do this, but you can add texture using pigments and white spirit:


Please note, white spirit is extremely toxic – it’s also very unpleasant to use, as the fumes are pungent, and dangerous in their own right:


Although the effect isn’t quite the same, a safer alternative would be to use glaze-medium/varnish + pigments, and make a thick sort of paste.

But, anyway – pigments are a very fine powder, and can be applied with a brush. I think less is more with pigments, personally:


So, I stippled some of the Burnt Sienna onto a few patches of rust:


Then added the natural sienna on top:


Use an old paintbrush, and dot white spirit onto the pigments:


The pigments soak-up the white spirit; and once dry, the pigment will be firmly attached but still look dry and powdery:


I finished by painting small marks/chips using black+brown on the white part of the hatch-door, highlighting the paint around them with pure white. This was just in a few areas, which otherwise looked a bit plain. I gave the whole area a glaze of matt medium, to tie it all together. Done.

Well, almost – it looks a little bit incongruous at the moment, as the surrounding areas haven’t been painted; but once they are, it will be possible to tell whether the effect needs to be toned down or not.