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Category Archives: Warhammer 40 000

Chaos Tank Revisited

The dbs ‘black and white’

I wasn’t entirely happy with the tank that I painted last year; so decided to repaint some of it – mainly just toning-down the brighter areas, improving the contrast via spot-colours, and replacing the freehand designs with some which were a bit more fitting:

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This was the final model of the Chaos Space Marine army, which I began a year ago. I will hopefully upload some photos of this soon.

 

 

A Quick Method For Painting Black

Pylon ‘Look Alive’  

Black can be a difficult colour to paint. There is a scientific explanation for this – namely that God decided it shouldn’t be an easy colour to paint. He tossed a coin.

There are some good guides to overcoming this, such as MassiveVoodoo‘s, or FlameOn‘s – but for a more straightforward rank & file approach, I use these colours:

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Step-by-step

1) Basecoat – black:

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2) Wash with Smoke:

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3) I don’t layer highlights on when painting black this way, because it turns the colour grey. Instead, keep the colour-transition minimal, by edge-highlighting in two stages:

i) First edge-highlight – mix a small amount of Khaki with black (dark grey).

ii) Second edge-highlight – add more khaki, to the above mix (light grey)

Unfortunately, my camera doesn’t photograph black very well, but you can see the edge-highlighting on the right elbow pad and Glove:

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4) Glaze – black:

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It’s not an artistic method; but it makes for an easy way to paint an effective black colour-scheme.

Painting Plague Marines (Rank & File)

Moonshake ‘Gravity’ 

It proved a bit gruelling, for some reason, painting these:

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However, the paint scheme itself is pretty straightforward. The specific paints/colours I’ve used are not all-important – they were intended to tie-in with a larger force; mainly composed of Khorne/Black Legion Chaos Space Marines. They were also meant to be quick to paint.

These are the basic colours used:

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The models were bought second-hand, a few years ago now; and I modified them slightly, as you can see from the green parts:

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Painting the armour

1) Rhinox Hide (GW):

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2) Bronze Green (VMC):

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3) Wash: i. Olive Green (VMA) + Smoke (VMC). ii. Wash with Smoke on its own (VMC):

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4) Edge Highlight: i. Bronze Green (VMC) + Rotting Flesh (GW). ii. Rotting Flesh on its own:

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5) Glaze: i. Thraka Green (GW). ii. Smoke (VMC):

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It isn’t strictly vital to use this final glaze of Smoke; but while Thraka Green smoothes out the previous layers, the Smoke colour adds a bit of warmth, and also makes the overall appearance look a bit murkier and less clean than, say, Dark Angels’ power armour tends to.

Painting the Buboes

These were the colours used – most of them, at least; I forgot to include the brighter red colour:

 

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To paint the buboes:

  1. Basecoat: Rhinox Hide.
  2. Burnt Cadmium Red (VMC)
  3. Burnt Cadmium Red + Red (VMC)
  4. Red + Trollslayer Orange (GW)
  5. Trollslayer Orange + Plague Brown (VGC)
  6. Plague Brown
  7. Plague Brown + Rotting Flesh (GW)
  8. Glaze: Baal Red (GW).

You can see how the colours were applied:

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And then how the glaze ties these all together:

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I also give them a final glaze with a thinned-down layer of water effect.

Creating the blood-effect

The materials used for this are, firstly, a piece of nylon thread – you can buy proper modelling versions of this, or use fishing line; but I just use the kind which attach labels to clothes:

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Also: PVA glue, epoxy glue, and superglue; along with Tamiya clear red paint and black artist’s ink:

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First, fix the nylon thread into place using dots of PVA. This won’t prove hardy, but it means you can manoeuvre the thread carefully into place. Once this has dried, reinforce the bond with small dots of superglue (using a cocktail stick, or something similar):

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Create the texture using epoxy glue – dot some on top of the thread, and some underneath it:

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You can use water effects, which is easier to apply, and less toxic than epoxy; but it is less able to withstand handling. I usually use a cocktail stick to stipple the glue, just before it has fully cured, in order to make it less smooth, and look more naturalistic.

Once the epoxy has dried, mix the Tamiya clear red paint with a small amount of black ink, to create the bloody-colour:

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Stipple this on using and old brush:
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And with that, ’tis done:

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Juggernaut – Finished

Thin White Rope ‘Wire Animals’ 

Finally completed: 016

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Showing it’s age as a model, really – but still characterful.

The base was made mainly using cork (don’t buy expensive modelling sheet-material – cheap table mats are equally good):

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Cork can be a slightly tricky material to work with – but adding texture paste makes the sheer-surface look more naturalistic:

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Simple, but effective.

Work In Progress – the Old Juggernaut of Khorne

 Jellyfish ‘The King Is Half Undressed’ 

I thought I would make a proper work in progress log, for once. Whenever I’ve tried this in the past, I tend to get caught up, and forget to take photos as I go along. I painted this when I was younger:

 

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I think the model itself has a bit of baby animal -syndrome about it: the claws and teeth are oversized, to make them look ferocious; but instead they look more cute than anything. So, I want to paint it in a way which gives it a more brutal character.

That’s the idea. Unfortunately, actually physically painting models like this is surprisingly tricky – where do you hold them while applying paint?:

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The main colours for this will be as follows:

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I’ve already finished the rider:

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Some More Old Chaos Space Marine Models

The The ‘Mercy Beat’

Some of the models I painted just before Christmas – the old Obliterators:

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Surprisingly tricky models to devise a good colour-scheme for, really.

One of the old Chaos Lords:

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The unit of Khorne Berzerkers…

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…which took what seemed like forever to finish. Never again!

 

Some good stuff:

Sculpting Old-School Flamers of Tzeentch (My Wargame)

The excellently sculpted Gore-Grub (Little Green Monsters)

Necromunda Terrain (Dylan Gould)

Rogue Trader-era models (Realm Of Chaos)

 

 

 

Work in Progress – Chaos Tank

I wanted to experiment a bit with weathering techniques on this – but to keep it fairly understated. I think, when it comes to special effects, less is more:

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As you can see, I used masking fluid, duabed-on fairly arbitrarily with a cocktail stick, to create the random chips and divots; then various washes and pigments to add colour – mainly purples, browns, and oranges. I also flickered-on blotches, using an old paintbrush:

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Once the washes had dried, I stippled metallic paint on in some places, and used a small piece of sponge in others. Nothing too fancy – but it still looks pretty effective, all told.