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Inq 28 resources

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Superjava – All in All

I mentioned compiling a list of resources for African, Middle Eastern, and Indian art themes, in a previous post. I thought it might be helpful to expand on that a bit, and include Inquisitor-related sources.

It should be easy enough to take inspiration from both, if you want to create Warhammer models and paint-schemes which combine these aspects.



For patterns and colours, mosques are a good place to start. Such as the Jalil Khayat Mosque, in Iraq:


Mehndi designs and Mandalas are also helpful:

There are plenty of instructive resources online, too.

See also illuminated manuscripts, such as the Dala’il Al-Khayrat:


For modern depictions of Middle Eastern themes see:

Errol Le Cain‘s illustrations for Aladdin:

Sinbad the Sailor as illustrated by Edmund Dulac.

Jan Pienkowski‘s version of 1001 nights.

And Kay Nielsen’s pictures of the same story:

See also:

Alida Massari’s illustrations.

Maaida Noor’s art.

Marvel’s Kamala Khan comic book character.

If you use Google images, there’s plenty more reference material available.


For African motifs, see:

Masai Beadwork

Tinga Tinga art – Martin Bulinya‘s paintings are especially evocative.

Traditional clothing is also helpful, if you’re painting cloaks etc. Examples can be found via Google Images, if you look for Nigerian or Masai clothing, for instance; or African prints. The same is true for Indian designs.


Warhammer figures 

Warhammer art and miniatures on these themes are a bit rare – but there are a few old copies of White Dwarf magazine which are helpful.

It isn’t necessarily worthwhile buying these; but if you already have them, then the following contain features on the Easterlings/Haradrim in the Lord of the Rings:

White Dwarf 314 (February 2006)

White Dwarf 352 (April 2009)

White Dwarf 358 (October 2009)

White Dwarf 386 (February 2012)

Probably the most helpful here, though, is White Dwarf 338 (February 2008) – which has extensive content; and several painting guides.

There are lots of galleries of Haradrim/Easterling miniatures online, of course.


A bit more miscellaneous – but still useful resources:

The Araby Army, from Warmaster

The Golden Magus from Dreadfleet

Tomb Kings

Al Muktar’s desert dogs

Tallarn Desert Raiders – along with their famous Captain Al’rahem


Creating unique space marine chapters 

Several old copies of White Dwarf magazine have good background material for this. See:

White Dwarf 210 (June 1997) which ran a competition for readers, on designing a space marine chapter:

White Dwarf 299 (November 2004) which has a section devoted to creating unique space marines.

For less serious ideas, see Custom Space Marine Chapters by Know Your Meme.

As an example of these, there are the Bronie warriors – featuring the likes of Pinkie Pie – Champion of Khorne; and Applejack – Herald of Nurgle.


Inquisitor resources 

Much the same, really, some older issues of white dwarf have sections devoted to the Inquisitor game and miniatures. See:

White Dwarf 257 (May 2001) – notable for featuring one of Mike Walker’s fairly wry takes on playing Warhammer, in dampest Wiltshire.

White Dwarf 259 (July 2001)

White Dwarf 264 (December 2001)

White Dwarf 265 (January 2002)

More directly relevant, White Dwarf 260 (August 2001) has a painting guide for Inquisitor Eisenhorn.

White Dwarf 261 (September 2001) has one for Delphan Gruss.

There’s also no shortage of online resources for the Daemon-hunters and the Witch-hunters models, in Warhammer 40,000.



There are many sites dedicated to making dark millennium-themed miniatures:

Several of these provide links to similar blogs, as well.



If you have a local library, there should be numerous anthologies of art to rummage through – but the books I find most useful are Making sense of Islamic art and architecture, by Adam Barkman.

And Daud Sutton’s Islamic design – which provides overviews of how to create geometric patterns:

Along with India: Secrets of the Tiger, by Paul Stump – which looks like it is a bit difficult to get hold of; but there will be similar books available.

It isn’t difficult to find resources for India online, however – including the most famous one of all:




Tea cartons!


Lots of teas (and coffees) are African or Indian, of course – so it’s always worth keeping an eye out for ones which have vivid designs.

Traditional Arab coffee pots (dallahs) are striking, too:


Hopefully these should all give people a starting point for ideas, if they want to create Warhammer models which have an Eastern theme.



Book Wraith (Inq 28)

Jane’s Addiction ‘Mountain Song’ 


I’ve finished the Book Wraith – it’s taken so long as I couldn’t get the colour scheme right:

I tried brighter colours on the feathers, at first; but it didn’t really suit the model:

So I added a bit of subtle colour in the form of jewels; and stuck to a warm palette.

I had painted the wings in khaki – but it looked slightly drab:

Which is why I changed the lower feathers to gold, and made the others more vivid.

I’m going to paint the Mendicant figure next – although I haven’t figured out a colour scheme there, yet, either.

Cherubim – painting dark skin.

Deftones ‘elite’ 

I had problems with painting dark skin, when trying to make the Khemrian rider look Arabian – so I took a different approach this time.

Rather than use dark brown, I used a dark reddish brown – i.e. Rhinox Hide; which looks more natural:


To paint dark skin

Colours needed:

Basecoat: Rhinox Hide

Wash: black + dark brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + small amount of Mournfang Brown

Layer: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre (2:1)

Edge highlight: Rhinox Hide + Tau Light Ochre + small amount of Khaki

Paint extreme highlights on areas like the knuckles, by adding Ushabti Bone into the above mix.

Glaze all over with a very thin layer of Rhinox Hide; and then with Seraphim Sepia.


A difficulty posed by painting the skin dark is that if you paint the surrounding areas in light colours, it detracts from the main body of the model – so a bit of planning beforehand is helpful.

Alternatively, a fair bit of trial and error….

For the scheme of the overall collection of models, though, I’m going to try and move away from the European-Gothic theme, which tends be quite generic in Warhammer; and use patterns and colours from African, Middle Eastern, and Indian art.

You can see some of these motifs in the old Tomb Kings models – and the even older Al Mukhtar’s Desert warriors; but there’s not much to go on in Warhammer miniatures/artwork.

Thankfully, there is plenty of real world reference material around, to take inspiration from. I might make a post about this in more detail.





Night Goblin Shaman revisited

Hang Ups ‘Jump Start’ 

I’ve finished rejigging the Night Goblin, originally done in February 2017:

Nothing too drastic – just making the base look a bit more imposing:

And I’ve changed the clothing – from a slightly over-bright hood:

To a racy, off the shoulders number (so to speak):

I also re-painted the metal areas with metallic paints:

Happier with this now than before:

This was the last of the models which needed re-tweaking; so I’m going to start painting the Inquisitor models this week – beginning with the Cherubim.



Felt ‘Cathedral’ 


I’m not quite ready to begin painting the Inquisitor retinue yet; so in the meantime, I decided to finish the models from last year, which needed a bit of improvement.

One is the Blanchian figure – I wasn’t keen on the banner, or the candle flames:

So, I’ve redone these:

The model was partly based on the anti-war paintings of Otto Dix – so I changed the banner from a Nurgley one, to an Imperial Guard design, which seemed more fitting:

I’m going to make some minor adjustments to the Night Goblin Shaman; and then I should be done.

Make Khemri Great Again – a slight revision.

Scrawl ‘Louis L’amour’ 

I wasn’t completely happy with this when I finished it last year, so I’ve just tweaked it slightly; partly as a kind of warm-up, before beginning to paint the Inquisitor retinue.

The desert area looked a bit empty, and the torch obscures the female rider’s face when viewed from the front.

So I’ve added some detail, re-positioned the hand; and also made the two characters separate from the base:

Bit happier with this, now.

I’m not quite sure of the colour scheme for the Inquisitor models yet; so it may be a while before I make a proper start on them.

Inquisitor/Dark Millennium – using greenstuff. A sort of guide.

School of Fish ‘three strange days’ 


My sculpting skills are not very good – so my advice is only worth as much as you’re paying for it.

However, the basics of using greenstuff – or any similar epoxy putty – are reasonably straightforward.

You don’t really need to buy lots of fancy tools, as a cocktail stick will suffice for most purposes; but if you want to develop your skills a bit, then the following are helpful:

The KY jelly is to lubricate your…sculpting tools.

You can just use water, but it tends to flood the putty easily. Some people use Vaseline or olive oil instead – but these are liable to affect the adhesion of paint; whereas a water-based lubricant can be washed-off easily.

Epoxy putty:

Which turns into green stuff when you’ve kneaded it together:

If the putty is new, it’s best to wait 15-20 minutes after kneading it together, before you start sculpting; otherwise it tends not to retain its shape. If it’s old, you shouldn’t need to wait.

These are the sculpting tools that I use most often:

Colour shapers can be used for smoothing putty out – but they’re not strictly necessary; and can be quite pricey:

A craft knife, tweezers and a cocktail stick – for general purposes:

Mug of water:

I usually keep sculpting work simple, as when it goes wrong it can look a bit duff; but it is often necessary to plug gaps. So, it’s worth learning how to use greenstuff properly.

It was mainly needed for a bit of repair work here, but also to add some detail. You can see the damaged plastic around the shoulder area:

Along with the lower-left side of the back:

So, dot some KY jelly on a suitable palette; and use this to keep your sculpting tools lubricated:

To begin, roll a small piece of putty, and put it into place:

Smooth it down – shaping it to match the surrounding contours:

Because I wanted this to look like a bio-mechanic figure, I added some copper wire; and blended it into the skin with putty: 

It was much the same with the left side of the model:

Organic shapes are fairly easy, and are a good place to start if you’re new to sculpting. Straight edges require a bit more precision to look right:

I think the key is just practice – to be patient, and build layers up gradually. Confidence also makes a difference, too – but don’t be afraid to remove the putty and start over again, if it goes wrong.